Why this matters more than artists often acknowledge
Makeup artistry training historically focused on a limited range of skin tones. The practical result for many brides of colour is artists who have less experience with shade matching across deeper tones, who carry fewer products for deeper skin, and who may produce results that look different to what they intended, particularly in photographs.
The issues most commonly reported by brides with deeper skin tones: foundations that are the wrong undertone (too pink, too grey), powders that create an ashy cast in photographs, under-eye coverage that doesn't cover effectively because the colour correction was wrong, and contour products that don't show up or blend incorrectly. None of these are inevitable. They're the result of an artist working outside their regular experience.
What to look for in a portfolio
Look carefully, not just at whether there are any examples of darker skin tones in the portfolio, but at the quality and consistency of those examples:
- Check whether the foundation is matched well, with no ashiness, no grey cast, and no obvious line of demarcation between face and neck.
- Check whether the photographs across different lighting conditions hold up, since flash photography and natural light can both reveal undertone mismatches that look less obvious in a controlled studio setting.
- Check whether the powder result is clean, as heavy translucent powders are a common source of grey cast on deeper skin, and well-applied powder on deeper skin looks like skin rather than grey or flat.
- Check whether there is genuine range in the examples, since one example of darker skin in a portfolio of 50 images is not evidence of experience, whereas consistent work across multiple tones and lighting conditions is.
Questions to ask before booking
- Ask "How many brides with skin tones similar to mine have you worked with?" because a specific, direct question deserves a specific, direct answer.
- Ask "What products do you use for deeper skin tones, specifically for foundation, concealer, and powder?" since an experienced artist will have specific product knowledge and preferences for deeper tones.
- Ask "How do you handle flash photography for deeper skin tones?" as there are specific techniques involving powder selection and highlighter placement that matter here.
- Ask "Do you carry the shade range for my skin?" and find out about the brand and shade range they use, and whether they stock deeper shades regularly or would need to source them specifically.
Every artist will say they work with all skin tones. What you need is specific evidence: examples of consistent, high-quality work across a range of deeper tones, and specific product knowledge when you ask about their approach. If the answer to every question is vague, the portfolio is 90% light skin tones, or they seem unfamiliar with the specific challenges of deeper skin in photography, that's relevant information.
The trial is especially important
For brides with deeper skin tones, the trial is non-negotiable. It's the moment where foundation matching is tested on your actual skin, in person, in multiple lighting conditions and photographed to confirm it reads correctly. Any undertone issues, powder problems, or coverage gaps show up at the trial, not on the wedding day.
Assess the trial result in both natural light and flash. Ask the artist to step outside for natural light photos. Take the photos home and look at them at various times of day. If the foundation looks grey, ashy, or too pink in the photos, say so, that's exactly what the trial is for.
If you know your foundation shade in a brand you trust, bring it to the trial. It gives the artist a confirmed shade reference and helps them match their own products to it accurately. This is especially useful if you've had shade-matching problems in the past.
The £49 studio trial is the right moment to test shade matching, coverage, and photography results on your skin specifically, with enough time before the wedding to adjust if anything needs changing.
Book your trial →